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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. However, nestled high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks the family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble restaurant achieving such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.